The denim is Evisu No. 13 LEFT which is the true Left Hand Twill new vintage Selvedge denim woven on shuttle looms in Osaka Japan by Kaiahara. Left Hand Twill denim is named like this for the opposite weave (top left to bottom right) direction of the diagonal lines on the denim instead of the normal right hand style. This denim will also wear down even softer than its right hand equivalent. No. 13 LEFT is green caste indigo, and has mismatched selvedge; one side is plain white and the other side has a single warp thread of indigo woven into it, following the Lee version. Jeans cut from No. 13 LEFT denim have the leather patch sewn on the left side of the waistband.
Right hand twill is the early Levi’s design, but our other favorite Liss liked to use left hand twill for its soft feel and comfortable wearing. Vintage Lee jeans were cut from slightly wider denim than Levi’s, so the leg often shows only one selvedge line, and one side of the overlocking.
The fit is the 0005 Slim fit and the silhouette is inspired from 1960’s Wrangler cowboy jeans. It is similar to 0001, but with a slimmer leg and thigh. Unlike 0001, the 0005 is cut straight over the hips and waist with a higher rise, originally allowing great freedom in the saddle. The snug fit across the seat and hips makes this cut particularly flattering.
Also look out for the celebrated LAZY S pocket writing, which looks a bit like horns of a bull, not a Levi’s eagle or a friendly Evisu seagull. Other Lee inspired details you will find are the Evisu Heritage label on the inside waistband that pays homage to the 1930’s Lee “House” label, showing the factory roof symbolising the fact that Lee overalls were union made. The Evisu Heritage woven label directly references this.
No. 13 LEFT is 14 oz regular and the sanforized denim will shrink about 3-5% after washing. The Evisu Lazy S Slim Jeans will be available for purchase from January 2009.
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